As lash artists, we aim to deliver flawless results, but sometimes mistakes happen. Whether it’s an exaggerated curl or brittle, damaged lashes, the key to resolving the issue lies in understanding what went wrong. One of the most common misconceptions in the industry? Misidentifying over-processed lashes as over-curled lashes. These are entirely different problems that require completely different solutions.
Before you decide whether to relax or redo a lash lift, it’s critical to:
- Recognize whether the lashes are over-processed or over-curled.
- Understand the chemical processes involved in each scenario. Was a Thioglycolate or Cysteamine system used.
- Know when it’s safe to intervene—or when to leave the lashes alone.
Let’s break it down.
What’s the Difference Between Over-Processed and Over-Curled Lashes?
Over-Processed Lashes
- Lashes that are brittle, bent, kinky, dry, or “fried.”
- A rough texture that’s prone to breakage.
- No flexibility, even when hydrated.
Cause: Over-processing typically happens when the Step 1 solution, Thioglycolate system &/or Cysteamine that also has Thioglycolate in the system is left on too long, damaging the lashes beyond repair.
Over-Curled Lashes
This happens when lashes are reshaped into an exaggerated curl, often creating an unnatural or impractical look. Signs of over-curling include:
- Lashes that are tightly curled, often folding back toward the eyelid.
- Lashes that look unnatural, even though their texture remains healthy.
Cause: Over-curling is often a result of:
- Using a shield that’s too small for the lash length.
- Thioglycolate being applied too far up lash length/beyond apex.
- New to Cysteamine system and understanding lashes follow solution placement, which is entire lash length – so you get exact shape of shields
Why It’s Critical to Know the Difference
The solution to over-curled lashes is often straightforward: relaxing or re-lifting the lashes to achieve the desired shape. However, over-processed lashes cannot be “fixed” through additional chemical treatments. Attempting to relax or redo over-processed lashes will only cause further damage.
Let’s explore each scenario in detail.
Over-Processed Lashes: What You Need to Know
Over-processing typically happens with thioglycolate-based systems, which are harsher, faster processing/more aggressive than Cysteamine systems. When lashes are exposed to these chemicals for too long, the damage isn’t Reversible.
Here’s why trying to relax over-processed lashes is a mistake:
- You’re re-exposing damaged lashes to the very chemicals that caused the problem. Over Processed equals Over Exposed to chemical.
- While some professionals showcase “smooth” results after relaxing over-processed lashes, this is a temporary illusion, that Doesn’t last. The structural damage is still present, and the lashes remain brittle and prone to breakage.
What Can You Do Instead?
- Nourish and Restore: Focus on hydration and flexibility using lash conditioners and nourishing serums. Clients should use a brand homecare product.
- Let Time Heal: Allow the lashes to grow out naturally before attempting any additional chemical treatments.
Over-Curled Lashes: Why Lift JuJu™ Excels in Correction
Over-curling is far more common with cysteamine-based systems like Lift JuJu™, but the good news is that it’s correctable. Lift JuJu™’s gentler formulation makes it safer to relax or re-lift over-curled lashes.
Why Lift JuJu™ Is Different
- Controlled Processing: Our cysteamine-based solutions are gentle compared to other cysteamine & traditional thioglycolate systems.
- Nourishing Ingredients: Step 2 (TLC) is designed to Condition, Lengthen, Thicken, repair, strengthen, promote growth, anchor hair in the follicle & hydrate during the process, ensuring the lash remains healthy. Penetrating hair to the core while the cuticle is open. And step 3 SEALs in these nourishing benefits while neutralizing.
- Precision and Customization: Our shield selection and advanced formulations allow professionals to adjust curl direction with ease.
Key Tips for Relaxing Over-Curled Lashes
- Assess Lash Health: Ensure the lashes are in good condition before attempting to relax or re-lift.
- Use Lift JuJu™’s Step 1, RELAX: apply to the entire lash length. If lashes are comprised only apply to tips 1-3 minutes. Use lash check for 100% accuracy.
- Apply TLC 5 minutes.
- Seal and Protect: Always finish with Step 3 to lock in Conditioning while closing & smoothing the lash cuticle.
Takeaway: Lash Health Comes First When addressing lash lift mistakes, understanding the difference between over-processed and over-curled lashes is crucial. With over-processed lashes, the damage is irreversible, and the focus should shift to repair and recovery. For over-curled lashes, however, Lift JuJu™’s gentle, keratin cysteamine-based system offers a safe and effective way to achieve the desired result.
By mastering this distinction and using high-quality products like Lift JuJu™, you can ensure that every client leaves with flawless, healthy lashes—and confidence in your expertise.